Last Updated 06/15/2003

A view of the Missouri River below Morony Dam, downstream from Great Falls, MT.
(click any picture for the full-size image)

We moved to Great Falls, Montana, along the banks of the Missouri River, and just north of its headwaters, in late Summer 2001. Upon arriving here, we quickly realized the significant ties between the city and the river. Whether it be the heritage of the Lewis & Clark Expedition, or the long-gone famous stack from the old power plant, or the many fishermen and outfitters who make their life wading in the water with their fly rods. Yes, it's very clear that this river is very important to the city.

In an effort to showcase what this historic river contains in terms of features -- both natural and man-made -- I've decided to begin a quest to photo-document some of the areas surrounding the Missouri River throughout Montana. This site just begins to scrape the surface, but hopefully over the next several months I will be able to add considerably to this living web document.

One of our biggest shocks when coming to Great Falls, MT, was that there are only a couple small falls within close proximity to the city. Upon further research, we learned that the actual "Great Falls of the Missouri" were, in fact, located several miles downstream from the townsite location. All said, there are 5 waterfalls in a cluster at this section of the Missouri: Black Eagle, Colter, Rainbow, Crooked (or Horseshoe), and Great (listed from upstream to downstream). There is also a large dam, Morony, just downstream from Great Falls, but not part of the series of 5 falls. Here is a link that I found about the naming of these falls. In addition to the various falls, there is also Giant Springs State Park, which is a fascinating natural spring feature along the Missouri.

One side-note of potential interest: One of the nicknames for Great Falls, Montana, is the "Electric City." This appears to be because of all the hydroelectric generating facilities built above some of the falls of the Missouri, as well as Morony Dam, below Great Falls, and Cochran Dam, between Crooked Falls and Great Falls. What is interesting about the dams built at some of the falls is that they are situated slightly upstream from the falls, allowing one to see how the falls look, though obviously not in their full natural splendour.

Headwaters at Three Forks:

We have not yet had a chance to visit the headwaters of the Missouri River near Three Forks. Hanna has visited the Lewis & Clark Caverns near Three Forks, however, and we some day hope to make our way upstream to this point.

Canyon Ferry Lake:

Located near Helena, Montana, the state capital, we have only driven by, and never had opportunity to visit it in earnest. The lake is man-made.

Gates of the Mountains:

North of Helena, Montana, the Gates of the Mountains is a unique and awe-inspiring stretch of the Missouri River marked by steep mountains on both sides. Historic Mann Gulch is located along this stretch, where 16 smokejumpers lost their lives in 1949. More can be read about Mann Gulch from this USDA publication.

Black Eagle Falls:

These falls are in the middle of Great Falls, Montana. I have not yet taken pictures, but hope to do so in the near future. Black Eagle Dam is a hydroelectric power generation facility spanning these falls.

Giant Springs:

Giant Springs State Park is just downstream from Great Falls, Montana, and is also home to the Lewis & Clark Interpretive Center. Giant Springs is a phenomenal natural springs feature along the Missouri River.

A view upstream, looking at water gently cascading down through the park from the Springs before merging with the Missouri.
I'm not certain, but it looks like the area around the Springs has been enhanced with a retaining wall. This is a look at the pond where the Springs bubble up.	A closer look at where water from the Springs bubbles to the surface. You can see at least three separate disturbances here.
As you can see, a nice retaining wall on the shoreline has been constructed, along with this overlook jutting out over the pond. Notice who crystal clear the water is. From where Hanna is standing, you can often spot fish moving around the Springs. The park is very nice, maintained by the State.
A view of the water cascading from the Springs into the Missouri. Obviously this walkway is not naturally occuring. Here we are looking downstream on the Missouri, too.	Another view of the water tumbling toward the river.
The Montana Depart of Fish, Wildlife and Parks also maintains a fish hatchery at Giant Springs State Park. Here is a shot of some of the trout in the "show pond" at the hatchery. During the day, you are allowed to walk through part of the hatchery and feed the fish.

Colter Falls:

This is a very small set of falls and is essentially not visible any longer due to the backup from Rainbow Dam, which is just above Rainbow Falls. It is reported that when Lewis saw these falls, having just seen Rainbow Falls, Crooked Falls and Great Falls, he immediately passed by without even naming them. Below is a photo of roughly where I believe the Falls would be located. This section of the Missouri is about half between Giant Springs and Rainbow Dam/Falls.

Rainbow Falls:

These falls are just downstream from Great Falls, Montana, and Giant Springs State Park, and is home to the Rainbow Dam hydroelectric power generation facility. This location is unique among the 4 Expedition falls in that it is the only one with a railroad track crossing at the same place. Perhaps not the most exciting feature, but it definitely adds some character in addition to the dam.

These photographs are taken from the Rivers Edge Trail just beyond the Lewis & Clark Scenic Overlook. One thing you'll notice in these pictures is the lack of the generator house. If you look at the right side of the dam, you will see a large metal pipe exiting the dam, heading downstream, and eventually underground. You'll see the generator building in the pictures of Crooked Falls below, along with the washway from that facility. The dam appears to funnel water to the righthand side of the picture where the intake is built.

Crooked Falls:

I was surprised to learn that Crooked Falls is very easy to reach. The Rivers Edge Trail that starts near downtown Great Falls extends for several miles along the Missouri, finally ending beyond the Lewis & Clark Scenic Overview at Crooked Falls. According to a newspaper article that was lamented and posted on an info board, there is also a primitive trail (that may some day be paved) that goes all the way to Ryan Dam and the Great Falls. On the northern shore of the Missouri, there already appears to be a primitive trail running all the way to Morony Dam.

That being said, here are several pictures of Crooked Falls -- the only falls discovered by Captain Lewis that remain largely unharmed by development. I say "largely unharmed" because the generator facility from Rainbow Dam is actually built on the north shore next to Crooked Falls, though it does not appear to have damaged the falls much, if at all. Nevertheless, the "normal" water flow over these falls is undoubtedly unnatural due to the existence of the various dams upstream. C'est le vie.

The first three images are looking downstream on the Missouri River toward Crooked Falls. On the left you will see a cluster of buildings and towers. These are all associated with the Rainbow Dam power house. The last three pictures are taken looking upstream on the Missouri River. On the right side you will see more of the Rainbow Dam generator facilities. I have, for the time being, opted not to include any photos with a close-up of the generator, since it does not add anything. One thing to note on the last three pictures is that you can see the railroad bridge above Rainbow Falls and can partially see Rainbow Falls through the trees in the background. These two falls (Crooked and Rainbow are quite close to each other).

Great Falls:

At the top of the Great Falls of the Missouri is Ryan Dam, operated by PPL of Montana. PPL also maintains a nice park on Ryan Island in the middle of the Missouri.

Ryan Dam sits atop Great Falls.	Ryan Dam sits atop Great Falls.
Hanna poses from a viewpoint on Ryan Island.	Hanna waits for me at the viewpoint.
Hanna steps up onto a rock at the viewpoint.	Looking downstream, Ryan Island has a nice park maintained by PPL of Montana.
Another view of the Ryan Island day area. You can see the suspension bridge over the power plant wash, which connects the island with the north short of the Missouri, where we parked our car.
A view of the power plant washway, the suspension bridge and the road and lot where our car is parked.	Shot from the suspension bridge, some pretty purple flowers were blooming along the river.

Morony Dam:

According to a sign along the road, Morony Dam is 101 feet high and can generate 48 megawatts of power. As you can see in the picture, only one chute was open through the dam. If the dam is around a hundred feet tall, then the plume of water at the bottom of the chute had to be in the 40-50 feet range. Quite impressive!

Missouri River Breaks:

We have only had a chance to drive one of the highways by the Breaks, but we hope to take a float trip through the area sometime this summer.

Fort Peck Dam:

More information and pictures will be coming in the future. We have driven through this area once, briefly, and were both awed and perplexed by the massive earth damn at this location. The Missouri literally runs into the Fort Peck Dam and then disappears for several hundred yards until it pops out again around the power house below.

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